An Isle Royale Expedition

Everyone was circled around with their loaded backpacks sitting on the dock.

“The boat departure is getting pushed back a few hours. It’s looking very choppy out there!” the boat captain announced. “If the size of the waves die down, we’ll try again at noon.”

I glanced over at my boyfriend, Reid, with my nausea wristbands on and my Dramamine ready in my bag. Great.

Isle Royale is one of the least visited National Parks (ranked #5 out of 63), and for obvious reasons – it’s an adventure just to get there. This park is only accessible by seaplane or boat, with either a 3.5-hour boat ride from Copper Harbor on the Isle Royale Queen IV or a 6-hour trip from Houghton on the Ranger III.

As someone prone to seasickness, I was not thrilled by the news, especially after hearing someone mention that the boat is also nicknamed the “barf barge.” Charming, right?

After the longest three hours of my life, we finally arrived.

Everyone eagerly disembarked and checked in with the ranger at the dock. The ranger asked how many in the group were returning visitors, and someone proudly announced it was their 15th time! Though Isle Royale may be the least visited park in the lower 48, it’s the most re-visited. Once people experience the remote beauty of this island in Lake Superior, it’s easy to understand why (yes, even with the boat ride).

Isle Royale has only two options for lodging: Rock Harbor Lodge or the Windigo Camper Cabins. But the main way to experience the island? Backpacking!

Having been pretty new to the backpacking scene, I was a bit nervous about trekking around the park with absolutely no cell service and so many moose in such a small area. But to my surprise, there are designated camping areas around the island (okay, maybe I’m not the best at planning to have missed this important detail – there are 36 campgrounds!) and several of the sites have a number of shelters to set up camp. With Isle Royale’s unpredictable weather, the shelters can definitely be a blessing. Normally, I prefer the solitude while camping, but to be honest, I was pretty relieved knowing there were other campers close by, and it added to the fun of having other outdoor enthusiasts to chat with.

Setting up camp on Isle Royale feels magical. Filtering water from chilly Lake Superior, listening to loon calls, breathing in the sweet scent of balsam fir. And what can I say? Eating freeze-dried meals under a stunning sunset just warms my heart.

After our first night, Reid and I hit the trail for the day. The plan? A bold 16 miles. Was I almost in tears on mile 13? Yes. Did I question if I even enjoy backpacking? Of course. But did I feel badass and so accomplished once we set up camp that evening? Obviously. Talk about loving some Type 2 fun!

Isle Royale’s terrain can be challenging. The island is mostly ridges, with trails often filled with large roots and rocks, and some sections including narrow boardwalks. Add a heavy backpack, and one mile can feel a lot longer. My #1 tip? Trekking poles! They may have saved me from falling over at least 10 times.

We arrived at the site and snagged the last available camping spot. If the spots fill up, it’s recommended to share with other campers, and some campgrounds even have overflow areas. If there’s truly no room, backpackers are allowed to set up in non-designated areas – but with the thick foliage and rocky terrain, I can’t imagine that’s an easy task.

On our last night on the island, we scored a coveted shelter spot! It felt like luxury camping – a picnic bench, an outhouse, and right next to Lake Superior with a dock to sit on. For dinner, we enjoyed a gourmet backpacking meal: ramen and instant mashed potatoes topped with a tuna packet.

The next morning, we made our final trek back toward the boat docks. We woke up early in hopes of spotting a moose, but no luck. Some of the best places to see moose on the island are inland lakes and beaver ponds during dawn or dusk, like Washington Creek in Windigo, Ojibway Lake, Feldtmann Lake, and Hidden Lake in Tobin Harbor. After reaching the harbor, we treated ourselves to a celebratory beer from Greenstone Grill and then waited to board the barf barge to head back to ‘civilization.’

I’ll definitely be back to Isle Royale along with all the other returning campers, but next time, I’m taking the seaplane.